The Awesomeness that is Canton 1.28.09

     I've finally gotten around to doing Canton. As a non-resident, I hope I can do justice to this truly spectacular Baltimore neighborhood. "Rantin' from Canton" was right: this was definitely missing from my older list of Baltimore neighborhoods and restaurants. This week is Baltimore Restaurant Week; unfortunately, the weather, schoolwork, and economy have not been particularly conducive to making full use of this. Nevertheless, I hope to hit at least a couple more of the best and most original downtown spots before the end of the week and take advantage of the specials, discounted prices, the culture, and, of course, the food. This past weekend, I was reminded that I needed to shed some light on the previously forgotten neighborhood, Canton. We went down there for dinner the other day, and ended up at a really cool restaurant called Helen's Garden. There was a new chef, in fact, that night, because their old chef has apparently just been called back to "Top Chef," which is pretty cool. 

     Anyways, I had some really good marinated Greek chicken kebabs with tzatziki and asparagus. The asparagus was a little overcooked, and the service was not outstanding, but nonetheless, the painted walls and original artwork for sale created a really cool vibe. Constructed out of two rowhouses, the entrance to Helen's Garden is through a painted tunnel-like space that used to be the little alleyway between the two homes. On either side is a bar and a restaurant, and the artwork was colorful and original, many of the subjects including Hopper-like storefronts, or colorful "Amish Quilts." These pops of color were a really nice juxtaposition to the darker, sleeker, and more neutral feel created by the low lighting, the contemporary seating, and the cream colored walls with dark trim. There were even cool little alcoves that had been built off of the other wall, with sheer bronze curtains adding to the intimate setting. 

     It also had unique qualities, like a surprise special, prepared by the main chef. If a customer orders this, all he knows about the dish is that he has a choice between filet and scallops, and he is surprised by whichever way the chef decides to pull each plate together. No two customers get the same surprise special; my dad ordered this, choosing scallops, and was quite happy with the result. In addition, their truly gourmet burgers are made with ground filet mignon, and the sweet potato fries, or regular, looked divine. They were golden brown, hand cut and sprinkled with salt and a fresh herb mix, and toppled over the large serving dish. For desert they had homemade Michigan cherry bread pudding, and volcano cakes that looked awesome, although if neither of these look good, you can always run across the street to the legendary Vaccaro's for one of the best cannolis in Baltimore. 

     Anyways, Helen's was pretty good. If you're looking for a place to watch the Ravens (next season) or something more casual, there is the epic Looney's or a family favorite of ours, Nacho Mama's, which features paraphernalia and merchandise from both the Baltimore Ravens and Colts teams. It's like a great place for cheap, indulgent foods, Natty Boh (if you're 21 and older), a museum, and a conversation with an authentic and eccentric Baltimorean all in one. In addition to the Baltimore brew, now made in North Carolina (weak,) Nacho Mama's, as I recall, loves Elvis. Loves. 

     I was looking at this place, Birches, that looks pretty excellent as well. Who wouldn't want to try 'The Original Pink House Dip,' with "backfin crab, artichoke hearts, baby spinach mingling with cream cheese and house spice, served with toasted baguette half?"I don't know, but I don't want to meet that person. In addition to the foodie stuff, it looks to have a good blend of pub grub, so to speak, and excellent brick-oven pizza and burgers. At the Can Company, you can find Austin Grill and, of course, Ray Lewis' Full Moon BBQ. (Although I am disappointed that Ray doesn't know it should be Lewis's rather than Lewis'.) He does a radio show there, too. Monday nights I believe. Gecko's is apparently some great southwestern style food, and then there is the classic seafood place/ rawbar with a cool name, 'Mama's On the Half Shell.' Anything crab or oyster is here, from shooters to crab dip, which I have already admitted I have a special spot for. Bay Cafe has also been acclaimed by some as the best waterfront spot in the city, which is saying a lot, and while its menu is simple, it sure does sound delicious. 

     Wherever you want to eat, and no matter what you want to do, it seems pretty clear that the heart of Canton is O'Donnell Square, which better resembles city storefronts from the 60's, or a small town main street, than it does a hotspot in the middle of Baltimore City. This, to me, is a good thing. It also has a park in the middle, complete with benches, and I'm sure perfect for enjoying a spring day or late summer evening. The community and the care put into these establishments really pays off, because like Fell's Point, Canton is an inviting place, where one cannot help but feel immersed in true Baltimore culture, and also safe.     No matter where you look, there is something cool to look at, something cool to eat, or something cool to buy, from one of the numerous locally owned and unique shops, selling quirky Baltimore stuff, pet goods, antiques, clothing. . As a crusader against sprawl, particularly urban sprawl, the brick facades and humble storefronts are pleasing to me, and it is clear that Canton's community members are uniquely attentive to their surroundings, and their dedication and commitment is reflected in Canton's growing popularity. Preservation and restoration of areas like Canton, so integral to the well being of a city like Baltimore, is often overlooked. But not here; Canton has fought the odds and come back stronger than ever.

      A short trip from Fell's Point, Patterson Park, and even the Inner Harbor, the Canton area is definitely accessible, and people are taking full advantage of this ('2910 on the square', right next to Helen's is a particularly good example of this, and offers one of a kind things on par with the artsy goods sold in and around Hampden's Cafe Hon.) After the Depression, Canton became home to many immigrants from various countries, and these communities have today forged a unique cultural epicenter that transcends the cuisine and events offered in and around the area. Canton is constantly offering karaoke nights, music festivals, and hosting green initiatives. As the home of the first branch of the Enoch Pratt library, as I remember, history certainly lives here. The waterfront scene is beginning to take root as well, and a full scale revival of this neighborhood is making it inarguably one of the best places to live and/or hang out in Baltimore. Bottom line, Mr. Rantin' from Canton, where you live is pretty awesome and I'm jealous.